The metamorphosis of the Longue Toque estate

Gabriel Meffre’s Longue Toque estate in the heart of the Dentelles de Montmirail mountains range in Provence is undergoing a far-reaching transformation to bring out the best in its magnificent terroir.

This is a tale of renewal. In 1999, the Gabriel Meffre wine house acquired the Longue Toque estate in the small chain of mountains known as the Dentelles de Montmirail. The estate, which produces Gigondas, has been the object of a vast renovation scheme, which is still on-going. “Our goal is to bring out the best in this exceptional terroir, located at between 200 and 500 meters above sea level,” says estate manager Etienne Maffre.

“We decided which varietals are best adapted for each soil type. We have also introduced plot-by-plot vinification carried out in-house.”

To date, a quarter of the vineyards have been restructured. Winemaker Véronique Torcolacci explains: “We decided to carry out part of the planting using massal selections from 100-year-old Grenache vines present on some of the higher-altitude plots, along with some Grenache Noir from Châteauneuf-du-Pape. We did the same thing with some old Clairette vines from Gigondas and some 80-year-old Syrah from the north of the Rhone valley.” Planted in 2017, these vines gave their first grape harvest in 2020.

In the long term, half of the estate’s vines will be grape varieties produced from massal selection. “This is a way of preserving the genetic heritage of our vines and introducing biodiversity. It’s an essential part of our overall sustainable approach,” Véronique explains.

Similar effort are being used for the white wines, with Marsanne, Roussanne, and Grenache Blanc being planted at an altitude of 500 meters on marl and limestone scree. “Before, there was Grenache Noir and some Syrah,” recalls Nicolas Spéranza, head of estates. “But the cool, windswept nature of the plots meant they were ideal for white wines.” The first vintage, the Côtes-du-Rhône 2017, is a good reflection of the minerality and purity of this terroir. 

Meanwhile, the winery has been entirely renovated, with a new grape reception area, sorting table, horizontal press, and temperature-controlled concrete vats. In the cellar, the old oak vats have been replaced by demi-muids which result in more rounded tannins. An example is the “Homage” cuvée, which is only made in the best years from 100-year-old Grenache planted on marl, sand, and limestone. The roots are forced to probe deeply into the soil, saving the vines from any hydric stress.

Some new single-plot wines have also joined the ranks from the 2020 vintage, including Les Trois Yeux, Les Plâtrières, and the Vaqueyras Les Ramières.

Lastly, an additional four hectares in the Cairanne appellation have been acquired, replanted with vines on the flank of the limestone crest known as the Dentelles Sarrasines. The estate now has 47 hectares under vine, and since 2020, has enjoyed organic certification for 36 hectares.